Thailand's arsenal of unique fragrances and spices - kaffir lime, galangal, lemon grass, hot chiles, coconut, peanuts, mint, curries and fish sauce - is the foundation of one of the world's great cuisines.

Swaddee unleashes its power. There's tom yum, a multidimensional hot-and-sour soup. There's green-curry chicken, brilliantly balanced with just about every spice in the spice rack. There's pad Thai, the national noodle dish, with its sweet, sour and salty notes. And there's barbecued chicken, another national treasure, a flaming half-bird touched with coconut.

Standout salads include the exotic papaya salad put together with shredded green (unripe) fruit, carrots and cabbage and robustly tossed with peanuts, chile, tomatoes and lime juice.

Fiery Thai food isn't for wimps. But if you can take the heat, you'll find it impossible to stay out of Swaddee's kitchen.